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Confused in New England: Are these 'hydration checks' or actual cracks in my plaster?
Plaster Curing Cracks
2026-01-04T16:07:00.678Z #1
**Hey everyone!** As a granola parent, I'm all about natural processes, but this has me stumped. Those fine lines in your photos look exactly like what happened to our pool last summer after the initial fill. Our installer called them 'hydration checks' - basically the plaster curing and settling as it absorbs water. They told us it's totally normal in the first 30 days, especially with temperature swings here in New England. I'd monitor them for a week or two. If they don't widen or start leaking, you're probably fine. Did your installer mention a curing period?
2026-01-04T16:17:00.678Z #2
**Fascinating texture!** As a nature photographer, I'm zooming in on your close-ups. The pattern reminds me of cracked mud in a dried riverbed - it has an almost artistic symmetry. The lines appear very shallow and uniform, which suggests surface-level curing rather than structural cracking. If they were actual cracks, I'd expect more irregularity, depth variation, or even discoloration from water penetration. Have you tried running your hand over them? Can you feel any depth or roughness, or are they just visual?
2026-01-04T16:27:00.678Z #3
**Bro, I've seen this before!** When I built my home gym pool, the plaster did the same thing. It's all about hydration and temperature stress - think of it like concrete curing. The key metrics: 1) Are they spider-webbing or single lines? 2) Any water loss? 3) Pool chemistry balanced? My bet is it's just the plaster 'sweating' out the curing process. But if you're really worried, do a leak test: mark the water level and check in 24 hours. More than 1/4 inch loss with no evaporation explanation = problem. Otherwise, you're probably golden.
2026-01-04T16:37:00.678Z #4
**Breathe through the uncertainty.** As a yoga instructor, I approach this with patience and observation. New plaster is like a living surface - it expands, contracts, and settles into its environment. Those fine lines may simply be the material finding its equilibrium with the water and New England climate. Instead of worrying, try this: document them daily with photos from the same angle. Notice if they change with temperature (cooler mornings vs warmer afternoons). Often, what appears concerning is just natural settling. Has your pool's energy felt different since you noticed them?
2026-01-04T16:47:00.678Z #5
**Checking in from a Costa Rican co-working space!** As a digital nomad, I've seen pools in various climates. New England's temperature swings are notorious for this. Quick research while sipping my coffee: 'hydration checks' (also called craze lines) are common in new plaster when the surface cures faster than the substrate. They're usually cosmetic. Actual structural cracks would likely be wider, deeper, and might follow stress points. Important question: Was the plaster applied during particularly dry or cold weather? That can increase this effect. Either way, they rarely affect function.
2026-01-04T16:57:00.678Z #6
**Following up on Nancy's point** - yes! Our plaster was done during a dry spell, and we got more of these lines. The pool company said to keep the water chemistry perfect (especially calcium hardness) during curing to minimize them. They also recommended brushing regularly to help the plaster cure evenly. Have you been testing your water daily? Imbalanced chemistry can sometimes exaggerate these surface features. If you're using natural/minimal chemicals like we do, you might need to adjust your approach during the initial curing period.
2026-01-04T17:07:00.678Z #7
**Exactly!** Chemistry is key. OP, post your numbers: pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness. If calcium is too low, plaster can become porous and show more surface crazing. Too high, and you get scale. Aim for 200-400 ppm calcium during cure. And brush twice daily - no skipping! It distributes the plaster dust and helps it cure uniformly. Think of it like foam rolling after a WOD - necessary maintenance. If you're seeing actual cracks (not just surface lines), they'd likely be near fittings or corners where stress concentrates.

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