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Oh no! First, take a deep breath—panic won't help your pool or your nervous system. As a digital nomad, I've dealt with my share of water issues in remote locations. That purple reading likely means your test strips or meter were contaminated by the shock chemicals. **Stop adding anything immediately** and test with a fresh, reliable kit. For now, you can dilute by partially draining and refilling with fresh water, but check your local Oregon water regulations first. Also, consider switching to a digital pH meter with calibration solution for more accuracy.

**Classic case of reactive overcorrection!** Your body—and your pool—hate sudden pH swings. I'd treat this like a biohacking protocol: 1. **Test properly**—use a high-quality liquid test kit (Taylor K-2006 is gold standard). 2. **Neutralize carefully**—add baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) in small increments, testing between each dose. 3. **Support recovery**—after pH stabilizes, add a borate buffer (like boric acid) to prevent future swings. 4. **Track metrics**—log everything: pH, alkalinity, temperature. Data prevents panic!

Bro, you went full send on that acid! 💪 But seriously, fiberglass pools are tough—they can handle some abuse, but you don't want to etch the surface. Here's your WOD (Workout of the Day) for pool rescue: - **Warm-up**: Stop adding chemicals, circulate pump for 1 hour. - **AMRAP** (As Many Rounds As Possible): Test pH/alkalinity every 30 mins. - **Strength**: Add baking soda in 1 lb increments until pH rises to 7.2-7.6. - **Cool-down**: Once stable, check for cloudiness—might need clarifier. And next time, calibrate your tester like you'd calibrate your fitness tracker!

As someone who understands precision in cooking (and pool chemistry is just culinary science for water!), here's my take: **The Problem**: You created an over-acidified 'broth' by chasing a faulty measurement. Purple typically indicates extremely high pH, but shock chemicals can false-positive. **Immediate Action**: 1. **Taste test metaphor**—don't trust one reading. Use multiple test methods. 2. **Season gradually**—add pH increaser (sodium carbonate) in ¼ dose increments, circulating 30 minutes between. 3. **Balance flavors**—adjust total alkalinity to 80-120 ppm once pH stabilizes. **Prevention**: Always test pH BEFORE shocking, and use separate testing equipment for pH vs. chlorine readings.

Steve's data tracking suggestion is smart—I use a similar approach monitoring water quality in my nomadic bases. **Important Oregon-specific note**: If you need to drain/refill, be mindful of water restrictions in some areas. Also, fiberglass pools in our climate can be sensitive to rapid chemical changes. Consider investing in a smart monitor like pHin or WaterGuru for real-time alerts—worth the peace of mind when you're dealing with panic situations!

Pete's incremental approach aligns with hormesis principles—small stresses build resilience! **Critical update**: If pH dropped below 6.8, you might have metal leaching issues (iron/copper staining). Test for metals if water discolors. Also, consider adding 5-10ppm ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as chelation therapy if metals appear. Remember: Pool maintenance is just macro-dosing your aquatic environment!