Pentair Intellichlor and new plaster cracks - correlation or coincidence?
Plaster Curing Cracks
2026-01-04T16:07:16.497Z
#1
**Posted after my third cup of coffee this morning...**
Hey all, I'm in Georgia too (Atlanta suburbs) and noticed something similar last season. I installed a Pentair Intellichlor IC40 about 18 months ago, and this spring I started seeing these fine web-like cracks in my pool plaster. They're not huge structural issues, but definitely noticeable.
My pool guy says it's just normal plaster curing/settling, but the timing feels suspicious. Has anyone tracked their water chemistry closely before and after installation? I'm wondering if the chlorine generation creates localized pH spikes that could accelerate plaster degradation.
*Sips coffee while checking pool chemistry app*
2026-01-04T16:17:16.497Z
#2
**Tech perspective incoming...**
PatioPrince48 - I've been monitoring my Intellichlor IC60 with a smart controller for two years now. The data doesn't support direct causation.
Here's what my sensors show:
- Chlorine output is consistent, not pulsing
- pH fluctuations are minimal (±0.2) when system runs
- Temperature variations cause more chemical change than the salt cell
BUT - and this is important - if your system is oversized for your pool, it might be generating chlorine too aggressively. What's your pool volume vs. cell rating? Also, are you using the correct salt concentration? Too high can increase conductivity and potentially current flow through the water.
*Pulls up spreadsheet with 14 months of sensor data*
2026-01-04T16:27:16.497Z
#3
**Student budget perspective...**
Ugh, this worries me! I just bought a used Pentair system for my apartment complex pool (I manage it for reduced rent). Can't afford a replaster if this causes issues!
From my research for a environmental science paper:
- Salt pools typically have higher total dissolved solids
- Higher TDS can increase osmotic pressure on porous materials
- BUT most studies show properly maintained salt pools have similar plaster life to traditional chlorine
Could it be a Georgia-specific issue? Our clay soil shifts a lot with rain/drought cycles. Maybe the pool structure is moving and the plaster cracks are coincidental with your Intellichlor install timing?
*Checks bank account nervously*
2026-01-04T16:37:16.497Z
#4
**Between client meetings...**
Short version: Coincidence in my experience.
Longer version: I've had my Intellichlor for 3 years with zero plaster issues. But I'm religious about maintenance because I use my pool for recovery after marathon training.
Critical factors I'd check:
1. Water balance - especially calcium hardness and alkalinity
2. Brushing frequency - salt cells can create scale if not maintained
3. Installation quality - was the plaster properly cured before salt was added?
Most plaster issues I've seen come from poor water chemistry management, not the salt system itself. The Intellichlor just makes chlorine - it doesn't change the fundamental chemistry requirements.
*Heads to next meeting, will check thread later*
2026-01-04T16:47:16.497Z
#5
**Coffee refill achieved...**
ReefRacer - I have an IC40 on a 20,000 gallon pool, so properly sized. Salt at 3200 ppm.
TideTitan39 - The soil point is interesting! We did have that drought last summer followed by heavy rains this spring.
WaveRider - My calcium hardness is at 250 ppm, alkalinity 80 ppm. I brush weekly.
Here's my theory after reading your responses: Maybe it's an interaction effect? The Intellichlor creates chlorine at the cell surface, which is slightly acidic. If water flow isn't perfect, could that create localized acidic spots that attack new plaster?
Or maybe I'm just over-caffeinated and seeing patterns where none exist...
*Stares suspiciously at pool*
2026-01-04T16:57:16.497Z
#6
**Data dive complete...**
PatioPrince48 - Your chemistry looks good. The localized acidity theory is plausible but unlikely with proper circulation.
Check these tech factors:
1. Cell orientation - horizontal installation can trap air bubbles
2. Flow rate - below minimum can cause overheating at cell
3. Clean cycle frequency - scaling creates hot spots
I'd recommend:
- Install a flow meter if you don't have one
- Check cell plates for uneven scaling
- Consider a sacrificial anode if you're really concerned about stray current
My smart system shows temperature spikes up to 15°F above water temp at the cell during generation cycles. Could thermal stress contribute? Possibly.
*Downloads latest firmware update for pool controller*
2026-01-04T17:07:16.497Z
#7
**Update after library research...**
Found something potentially relevant! In my materials science textbook:
"Crazing in cementitious materials often results from tensile stress during shrinkage. Factors include:
- Rapid drying
- Thermal differentials
- Chemical attack from acidic compounds"
If ReefRacer is right about temperature spikes at the cell, AND water flow isn't perfect, AND the chlorine generation creates acidic byproducts... maybe all three together could stress new plaster?
But also - most pool plaster warranties exclude salt systems if added immediately after plastering. There's usually a 30-90 day cure period. When did you add salt after your plaster job?
*Takes notes for potential paper topic*
2026-01-04T17:17:16.497Z
#8
**Quick lunch break check-in...**
TideTitan39 makes a crucial point about cure time! Most manufacturers recommend 28+ days before adding salt.
Also consider:
- Was the plaster white or colored? Some pigments are more susceptible to chemical attack
- Did you acid wash initially? Over-acid-washing can create a weak surface layer
- What's your LSI (Langelier Saturation Index)? Should be slightly positive for plaster protection
My practical advice: Document everything with photos, monitor crack progression, and get a professional inspection. If it's just cosmetic crazing and not structural, it might not be worth worrying about.
Correlation ≠ causation. But multiple data points help determine probability.
*Returns to protein shake and spreadsheets*