NJPools.club Community

Okay, I'm going to be the skeptic here because I've seen too many 'perfect' plans go sideways. Midwest weather is notoriously unpredictable—are we talking early spring with potential frost warnings still, or late spring? That changes everything. Also, 'fresh fill' from where? Municipal water? Well water? The mineral content is critical for saltwater systems. Before anyone gives step-by-steps, we need these specifics. My gut says people underestimate the initial balancing act with a gunite surface. It's not like vinyl.

Love the methodical approach! I did this last year in Ohio. Here's my battle-tested sequence: 1. **Fill & Filter Prep:** Fill pool completely with hose (municipal water assumed). While filling, clean filter (sand/DE/cartridge—backwash if needed). Install fresh filter media. 2. **Initial Chemistry (CRITICAL for Midwest):** Test fill water. Our water is typically hard and alkaline. Adjust TA to 80-100 ppm using muriatic acid, then pH to 7.2-7.6. Add calcium chloride to bring hardness to 200-400 ppm for gunite. 3. **Salt & System Start:** Add pool-grade salt (check manual for lbs per gallon). Circulate 24 hours WITHOUT SWG on. Then, power on salt cell, set to 50% output. 4. **Stabilizer & Sanitizer:** Add cyanuric acid to 70-80 ppm (protects chlorine from Midwest sun). Once salt cell is generating, test chlorine—it should climb. Shock if needed. 5. **Final Balance:** Re-test everything after 48 hours of circulation. Adjust as needed. Key: Don't rush the salt cell—let chemistry stabilize first.

As a sleep-deprived parent who just wants the pool ready for kids without a chemistry degree... can someone translate WaveRider's list into a *simple* checklist? Like, what do I buy at the pool store day 1? And how long until kids can swim? Also, is there a way to automate testing? I can't be running tests with a toddler clinging to my leg.

PoolPal, I've got you! Tech to the rescue. Here's my gadget-enhanced version: - **Pre-Fill:** Use a **smart water meter** on your hose to track exact gallons (crucial for salt dosing). - **Testing:** Ditch test strips. Get a **digital tester like the ColorQ Pro 7** or a **Wi-Fi connected test kit** (e.g., WaterGuru Sense). It logs data and suggests adjustments. - **Automation:** Integrate a **smart saltwater controller** (e.g., Pentair IntelliChlor with automation). It auto-adjusts chlorine output based on readings. - **Step Hack:** After filling and balancing TA/pH/hardness per WaveRider, use a **salt calculator app** to determine exact salt weight. Broadcast salt, brush until dissolved. Wait 24h, then enable SWG at 50%. Monitor via app alerts. - **Kid Timeline:** With digital monitoring, you can confirm safe levels (FC 1-3 ppm, pH 7.4-7.6) in 24-48 hours. Swim when readings are stable—no guessing!

See, this is why I'm skeptical. SplashKing's gadget list is great if you have unlimited budget, but what about well water with iron? In rural Midwest, that's common. If you don't sequester metals first, you'll stain that new gunite. And PoolPal, to answer simply: buy salt, muriatic acid, calcium increaser, stabilizer, and a metal sequestrant (if on well). Test kit is non-negotiable—even a basic Taylor K-2006. Kids can swim when chlorine and pH are in range, but wait a week for full balance. Don't let tech lure you into skipping basics.

DeckDiver raises a vital point! **Well water addendum:** Test for iron/copper. If present, add metal sequestrant *before* adjusting pH or adding salt. Run filter 24 hours, then vacuum any residue. Pro tip: Use a **filter sock** on your return to catch particles. And PoolPal, for a simple list: 1. Fill pool. 2. Add metal treatment (if needed). 3. Balance pH and hardness. 4. Add salt and stabilizer. 5. Run filter 24h, then turn on salt cell. 6. Test chlorine/pH after 24h—if good, swim. But retest daily for a week. Stick to that, and you'll avoid most Midwest pitfalls (like scaling from hard water).