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Okay, I'm in the same boat as the OP—just had my pool replastered last week. My Pentair manual says to run the pump 24/7 for the first 48 hours, keep pH low (7.2), and brush twice daily. But my pool guy insists on running it only 8 hours a day, keeping pH at 7.8, and brushing once. It's like following a recipe where one chef says 'sear the steak' and another says 'slow-cook it'—both might work, but which one actually gives the best result? I'm leaning toward the manual because it's from the equipment maker, but I don't want to piss off the pro who's been doing this for years. Has anyone actually compared outcomes?

**Data nerd here.** I'd treat this like debugging a gadget conflict. Pentair's guidelines are based on their equipment specs and plaster chemistry models—probably tested in labs. Your pool guy's method is field-tuned, maybe for your local water hardness or climate. Do you have a smart controller? Log the pump runtime, pH, and temp for both methods over a week. I'd run the manual's protocol but tweak if you see scaling or cloudiness. Also, check if Pentair has firmware updates or a support forum—sometimes manuals get revised. **Pro tip:** Snap photos daily to track plaster cure; it's like a timelapse for troubleshooting.

Ugh, this stresses me out—chemical imbalances can harm the plaster AND the ecosystem. Running the pump 24/7 wastes so much energy! My pool guy uses a more natural approach: less circulation, higher pH to reduce acid usage, and he adds a non-toxic sequestering agent instead of harsh chems. It worked for our quartz finish last summer. Maybe ask your guy *why* he deviates from the manual? If it's to cut water/energy use or avoid over-acidifying, that's a win. But if he's just cutting corners... yikes. Trust but verify with a water test kit—I love the Taylor K-2006 for accuracy.

Ellen, my guy's reasoning is 'I've done 100 pools this way'—which feels like grandma's cooking vs. a recipe book. SplashKing, I don't have a smart controller, but I'm logging manually. Update: Day 3, I split the difference: pump 16 hours, pH 7.5, brushing 2x. Water's clear but I've got a faint blue tint (plaster is white). Is that normal? Also, the manual says no heater for 28 days, but my guy said 14 days is fine if I keep chems balanced. **SOS: Do I risk voiding my equipment warranty if I ignore Pentair?**

Blue tint = possible copper or cobalt leaching if your fill water has metals—check with a test strip. **Warranty alert:** Pentair might deny claims if you deviate from their startup, especially for heaters. I'd email their support with your pool guy's plan and ask for written approval. As for the split approach, you're basically A/B testing—smart! But inconsistent variables (pH, runtime) make it hard to isolate issues. Pick one protocol for a week, then switch if problems arise. P.S. If your guy's method saves energy, calculate the kWh savings vs. potential plaster repair costs.

That blue tint worries me—could be from algaecides or metal sequestrants. Please avoid adding more chemicals until you test! And the heater? **Wait the full 28 days.** Fresh plaster off-gasses and heats can cause cracking or discoloration. I'd rather save energy by using a solar cover later than rush and ruin the finish. Maybe compromise: follow the manual for critical steps (like heater delay) but adopt your guy's eco-tweaks (e.g., reduced pump time if water stays balanced). Also, brush gently—over-brushing can wear new plaster. Sending calm vibes—this too shall pass!